Until 2012 I had never celebrated or really experienced CNY. After 2012 I wonder how???
Dragon Sculpture at the Singapore Firework Display
CNY is possibly one of the best experiences from Singapore itself, as it gave me a chance to see the traditional side of Chinese Culture in a modern day country. I recall asking one of my travelling companions about her opinion having first been to China Town when we arrived in Singapore to which she responded:
"I expected there to be more dragons..."
At first I had laughed at her (extensively), but actually what she said made a lot of sense. From a western culture we have very little concept of what Asian culture is like and many films often portrait it during CNY with the parades of dragons and fireworks. In all honesty this is nothing like Asian culture. I got the MRT (underground) every day, I ate in food courts, and fireworks are banned most days of the year (just like the UK). In desperate attempts not to look like a tourist (which is hard when you are 6ft 2" in a country that is roughly 80% Asian) I also avoided the rickshaws which were seldom found. There are obviously difference between Asia and the UK but they are perhaps not as stereotyped as we first perceive them.
Temples surrounded by modern city high rise
CNY is perhaps the most important time of the year in Singapore for most of its population and everyone goes all out in celebrating it (even if you're not Chinese). It is a time for family, but more importantly, it is a time for food!!! For four days straight there was an epic binge on a variety of different foods with many different people.
Dim Sum
A collection of different Dim Sum and preying chop sticks
CNY was my first ever experience of Dim Sum and now I'm addicted. Although Dim Sum is traditionally meant to be a mid-morning meal I and several other Singaporean friends managed to eat from 2pm through to 5pm. An important point to note is that Singaporeans are machines when it comes to food, yet they make us British look American (and by that I mean obese).
Dim Sum is a collection of many little dishes; some steamed and some fried, ranging from vegetarian dishes to the dreaded chicken's feet (which don't taste as bad as they sound!). The trick with Dim Sum is to let your inhibitions go, and if you are lucky enough to know Singaporeans, let them order. Usually Dim Sum will be eaten over several servings (or as I like to call them "rounds") and you wait for the Aunties to wheel the Dim Sum round on their trollies in little steam baskets.
The etiquette of Dim Sum is some what precarious. In the first "round" you order a plethora of dishes and politely pick at dishes whilst chatting and sharing Green Tea. This is the chance to sample everything on offer and decide what to avoid next time round and what to hoard. I love this "round" because by the end the table has a mini bamboo basket city constructed on the table like a New York skyline. In the second "round" you know what you want and so you either wait for it to come to you or you order it specifically. By the time this "round" is over the stragglers (usually the Brits) are done. However, if you are like me (greedy) you will order again and this time you only order what you really love. For me these were the steamed "money bag" dumplings; a delicacy around CNY. "Money Bags" are small steamed dumplings filled with a soup like stock. They are best eaten with vinegar and strips of ginger.
Street Food Culture
Not my most flattering photo...
China Town around CNY is perhaps the best place for street food. In the above picture I am eating Bak Kwa. Usually pork, Bak Kwa is barbecued with a sticky sweet glaze. The price of Bak Kwa increases with each day as it gets closer to CNY as people give it as gifts. Other great street foods include custard tarts and Ya Kun aka Kaya toast.
Dragon and Lion Dances
The Dragon Dance
I was lucky enough to get invited to the CNY reopening of a shop owned my Singaporean friend's uncle. This is a occasion where tradition is still important. All of my friend's family were there, including distance relatives, and all of them were giving Red Envelopes. For those unfamiliar to Red Envelopes, it is a tradition whereby married couples of all ages give red envelopes filled will small sums of money to younger unmarried persons (usually kids, but also me).
Red Envelopes, some sponsored by Maccy D's
The shop reopening involved two traditional dances/performances. I cannot claim to know the exact tradition/function of these dances but the general gist of them is that they ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune for the new year. This is a fantastic event to watch as there is loud music from drums, everyone is enjoying themselves, and the grannies are slapping the arse of the Lion; apparently for good luck (doubt I'd get away with that excuse...)
The Traditional Chinese Lion Dance
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